Here are some photos from my most recent send:
Tuesday, October 5 2010
Photos of Blood Redemption 8C!
By Magnus Midtboe on Tuesday, October 5 2010, 19:43
Thursday, September 30 2010
Blood Redemption 8C!
By Magnus Midtboe on Thursday, September 30 2010, 01:17
Last try, last minute today I did the hardest problem of my life, together with and captured by Made Production. I have been working on this problem every time I’ve been in Bergen the last few years. I did Gjeddehenget before it broke, when it was 8B/+, though that wasn’t the very sit start. Today at the very last minute I did the hardest problem of my life. Two and a half hours before my flight back to Oslo i made it! The sit start adds four moves to the boulder and makes it into a totally different boulder - Four of the hardest and definitely most amazing moves I have ever done!
I propose 8C for this boulder, even though I have never done an established 8B+ before. This suits me better than any other Boulder. Mostly because of its length - 24 moves. The length also makes it less specific - it’s not all about one or two moves.
Side note: In June I did another hard beautiful problem at Matre long referred to as the double dyno project. I named it 'All in all out' and gave it 8B.
Tuesday, September 28 2010
Matre!
By Magnus Midtboe on Tuesday, September 28 2010, 23:06
Tonight I'm flying to Bergen (was my home town for 19 years) for two good climbing days at Matre. The main goal is Gjeddehenget. Last time I tried it (in June) I realized it goes. I don't know if I can do it this trip, but it will be interesting to see how it feels now. I think I'm in better shape then last time I tried it. Though I haven't climbed that much since I got back to Norway. Not too psyched on the gym climbing right now. Gjeddehenget as I have described before is basically a four move 8A+/B boulder into long (20 moves) 8A+/B boulder. Very much my style as it requires endurance unlike most other boulders. Definitely the coolest and hardest problem I have ever tried!
Monday, September 13 2010
Another summer has come to an end.
By Magnus Midtboe on Monday, September 13 2010, 12:26
Sasha is on her way home. I'm still in Edinburgh waiting for my flight to depart. I came here to watch the youth world chmpionships, obviously in hopes Sasha would win. In my opinion she was stronger than ever before. And she showed everyone how strong she was by cruising the semis. Unfortunatelyn she got a route reminding me of the 80's as her final route, where fitness seemed to be irrelevant. She slipped off the slab and got 4th place (for the 3rd time in a row at youth worlds).
After Rodellar we went to Innsbruck for a week, to get some plastic experience. I felt like I was in really good shape the first few days, but didn't improve much. I used to think climbing on plastic was the only way to get fit for plastic. But that has changed. Now I feel like a long climbing trip is what will get me in top shape. Also a lot more fun.
I'm very excited about this new blog. This first blog was just a copy from my homepage. Though I hope to do a better job at updating both this and my homepage in the future.